For almost four years, Fred Donnelly's red Mogridder's BBQ truck has animated a nondescript section of the Bronx, where it sits in front of his auto repair shop. (The Mogridder's special--an oil change and brake check plus a platter of slow-smoked ribs--does brisk business.) Last October, Donnelly finally opened a place to sit and eat. He makes these spectacularly sticky ribs at home. "Anyone you make them for falls in love with you," he says.