Soak 2 cups wood chips in hot tap water.

Rinse and pat dry ribs. Make Rub: In a medium-size bowl, combine sugar, garlic salt, onion powder, cinnamon, oregano and pepper. Rub mixture generously over meaty side of ribs. Sprinkle a small amount over bony side of ribs.

Prepare smoker: Fire up 10 pounds of charcoal in bottom of grill. The charcoal is ready when gray and ashy. Reassemble grill, water pan and bottom grill grate. Pour at least 8 cups water into the water pan. Place 2 of the half rib racks, meaty side up, on the bottom grate. Replace the top grill grate and top with remaining two half rib racks. Cover grill; shake excess water off chips, then add to charcoal through side door.

Smoke ribs at 200 degrees F to 225 degrees F for 3 hours, then carefully turn over. Continue to smoke ribs for an additional hour. Turn ribs again, and brush with 1/2 cup of the barbecue sauce. Continue to smoke for another 30 minutes to 1 hour, until rib meat registers 160 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from grill and brush again with sauce. Serve with additional sauce on the side. Makes 8 servings.

To smoke on a gas or charcoal grill: The secret to smoking food is, Keep it low and slow. Here are other tips, plus a guide to converting your grill. Cooking time will vary with outside air temperature (the cooler it is, the longer it takes) and how many times you open the cover, so resist that urge! Leave wiggle room in your serving timetable.Thread a probe thermometer through a vent for an accurate cook temp; test finished dish with an instant-read thermometer. Choose lighter, fruitier chips for poultry and fish, pungent or infused ones for pork, beef and game meats. Soak chips in water for about an hour.

Follow the manufacturer's directions for amount of charcoal needed. Do not use charcoal infused with starter fluid because it could make food taste "off." Briquettes are ready when gray and ashy; push to perimeter and place a foil pan with 2 cups of water in center. Place soaked wood chips directly on briquettes; put food on grill rack above pan of water. Add 5 to 7 briquettes to each side every hour if grill temp varies.To convert a gas grill: Heat the grill 15 minutes; turn one burner to medium or medium-high, the other off. Place presoaked wood chips in a foil pan directly on the hot burner; place a foil pan of water on other side. Add food to grill rack above pan of water.

For all grills: Use a Charcoal Companion wood chip smoker box for an easy flavor boost; www.companion-group.com.