For brine, in a large bowl, combine beer, salt, brown sugar, celery seeds, cayenne pepper, ground black pepper, and, if desired, liquid smoke; stir until salt and brown sugar are dissolved. Cut ribs into 2-rib portions; place in a resealable large plastic bag set in a shallow dish. Pour brine over ribs; seal bag. Marinate in the refrigerator for 6 hours, turning bag occasionally.

Remove ribs from bag; discard brine. Pat dry with paper towels.

Prepare grill for indirect grilling. Test for medium heat above the drip pan. Place ribs, bone sides down, on the grill rack over the drip pan. (Or place ribs in a rib rack; place rib rack on the grill rack over the drip pan.) Cover and grill for 1-1/2 to 1 3/4 hours or until ribs are tender, brushing with barbecue sauce during the last 5 minutes of grilling. Add additional coals as needed to maintain temperature. Makes 4 servings.

*Honey-Beer Barbecue Sauce: In a medium saucepan, cook 1/3 cup chopped onion and 1 minced clove garlic in 1 tablespoon cooking oil until tender. Stir in 3/4 cup chili sauce, 1/2 cup beer, 1/4 cup honey, 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, and 1 tablespoon prepared mustard. Bring to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, about 20 minutes or until desired consistency, stirring occasionally.

Make-Ahead Directions: Prepare as directed through step 2. Cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Grill as directed in step 3.