Sear-roast the salmon: Heat the oven to 425 degrees F. Turn the exhaust fan on to high. Pat the salmon thoroughly dry with paper towels. Season both sides generously with salt and pepper (about 1 teaspoon of each total). Heat a 12-inch heavy-based ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat until a droplet of water vaporizes in 1 or 2 seconds, about 1 minute. (If the water skitters around the pan and doesn't evaporate, the pan is too hot; take it off the heat for about 30 seconds to cool.)

Add the oil, swirl it around the pan, and then evenly space the fish in the pan. Cook without touching for 2 minutes. Using a spatula, lift a corner of the salmon, check that it's both well browned and easily releases from the pan, and flip it over. (If it sticks or isn't well browned, cook for 1 to 2 more minutes before flipping.) Cook the second side for 1 minute and then transfer the skillet to the oven.

Roast until the salmon reaches an internal temperature of 135 degrees F and is slightly firm to the touch, about 4 to 7 minutes. Using potholders, carefully remove the pan from the oven, transfer the salmon to a large plate, tent with foil, and let it rest while you prepare the sauce in the same skillet.

Prepare the pan sauce: Pour off any excess fat from the skillet. Using a large wad of paper towels, blot any remaining oil from the pan but leave any browned bits. Return the pan to high heat and add the wine, shallot, and rosemary. Cook, stirring, until the wine is almost completely evaporated, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cubes of butter, adding a few at a time until they're all thoroughly incorporated and the sauce is thick and creamy looking. (If the butter is slow to melt, set the pan over low heat.) Stir in the lemon juice, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately, spooned over the sear-roasted salmon.

The big flavor brought on by searing, coupled with the richness of the butter, means this salmon can handle a dry rose or light red, like Pinot Noir.