Preheat a gas grill (with all burners lit) to 400 degrees F or build a fire in a charcoal grill and let it burn down to medium heat (about 400 degrees F).

Coarsely crack peppercorns with a small heavy skillet (or saucepan), in a mortar and pestle or in a spice grinder.

Tie kitchen string around tenderloin in several places so the meat will hold its shape as it cooks. Rub with oil, sprinkle with salt and coat with the cracked peppercorns.

If using a gas grill, turn off one burner (leaving 1 to 2 burners lit, depending on your grill). If using a charcoal grill, move the coals to one side. Place the tenderloin on the unheated side of the grill rack. Close the lid and roast undisturbed for 20 minutes.

Rotate the tenderloin 180 degrees, cover and continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat registers 140 degrees F (for medium-rare), 15 to 35 minutes more. Transfer to a clean cutting board and let stand for 10 minutes before slicing.

Note: You'll need 3 pounds of trimmed tenderloin for the beef tenderloin recipe. Ask your butcher to remove the extra fat, silver skin and the chain (a lumpy, fat-covered piece of meat that runs along the tenderloin). If you buy untrimmed tenderloin, start with about 3 1/2 pounds, then use a sharp knife to trim the silver skin, fat and chain.

MAKE AHEAD TIP: Equipment: Kitchen string