In a large kettle bring 5 quarts water and 1 teaspoon salt to boiling. Add the shrimp. Bring to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, for 1 to 3 minutes or until shrimp turn opaque, stirring occasionally. Drain shrimp. Rinse under cold running water; drain again.

To arrange shrimp, use a glass bowl that is 7 to 8 inches in diameter and about 4 inches deep. Arrange the shrimp, tails toward the center, in a circle to make 1 flat layer. (Only the round backs of shrimp should be visible from the outside of the bowl.) Repeat layers until bowl is filled, pressing down every couple of layers with the bottom of a plate that will fit into the bowl. When bowl is full, press down with plate once again.

For marinade, in a screw-top jar combine the olive oil, wine vinegar, lemon peel, lemon juice, tomato paste, honey, garlic, ginger, salt, and cayenne pepper. Cover and shake well. Pour marinade over shrimp in bowl. Cover and chill overnight, occasionally placing a flat plate larger than the bowl tightly over the bowl and inverting it to redistribute marinade.

Before serving, hold the plate off-center and invert bowl slightly to drain off marinade. Repeat inverting and draining until all marinade is drained. Discard marinade. Place serving platter with 1/2-inch sides over bowl as shrimp will continue to water out a bit; carefully invert bowl to unmold.

If desired, arrange cucumber and red onion around shrimp.

Makes about 20 appetizer servings

Smaller version: Halve the amount of shrimp and marinade called for and arrange in a glass bowl that is 5 to 6 inches in diameter and about 3 inches deep. Makes about 10 appetizer servings.

Orange-Mint-Marinated Shrimp Bowl: Prepare as above, except substitute orange peel for the lemon peel and orange juice for the lemon juice. Substitute Dijon-style mustard for the tomato paste. Omit cayenne pepper. Add 1 tablespoon snipped fresh mint to the marinade. Omit onion for garnish. If desired, arrange cucumber ribbons and fresh mint sprigs on top of shrimp, and garnish with orange wedges.

Spicy Marinated Shrimp Bowl: Prepare as above, except omit honey and ginger. Add 1 teaspoon ground black pepper and 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper to marinade mixture. Omit cucumber and onion garnish. Serve with lime wedges if desired.

Quick Lemon-Marinated Shrimp Bowl: Prepare desired version as above, except use 4 pounds frozen cooked shrimp (with tails), thawed, in place of the 5 pounds fresh large shrimp in shells. Arrange shrimp in bowl. Use desired marinade. Continue as above.