In a small bowl or dish, combine the black pepper, thyme, and olive oil and rub equal amounts of the mixture on both sides of each steak. Set aside and prepare the grill.

When the fire is hot (you'll be able to hold your hand just above the grate for 1 second), sprinkle both sides of the steaks with the salt. Grill the steaks on one side for 5 to 6 minutes. If there are flare-ups, move them to another spot on the grill. Turn the steaks and finish cooking on the second side for 3 to 4 minutes. They should be rare to medium rare at this point.

Remove the steaks from the grill and transfer to a clean serving platter to rest for 3 or 4 minutes so the meat relaxes and the juices redistribute.

If you like, serve with a generous tablespoon of Roquefort Butter on each steak, letting the butter soften slightly on the cooked steak for a minute or two. At this point, the steak will have advanced half a degree to a perfect medium rare.

1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until the shallots are soft, about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. Meanwhile, using a mixer or a wooden spoon, beat the remaining butter until soft and creamy. Scrape the butter off the beaters or spoon. Add the cooled shallots and garlic, Roquefort, thyme, and vinegar to the butter and mix with a rubber spatula. Season with salt and pepper. Taste again for balance, adding a drop more vinegar or a dash more salt if necessary.

2. This butter mixture, called a compound butter, can be stored in a covered plastic container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap the butter in plastic wrap or waxed paper, roll into a log 2 inches in diameter, and freeze for up to 2 months.