In a medium bowl, mix the sage, zest, 1 ounce salt, and 1 tablespoon pepper.

Remove the tail, neck, heart, and gizzard from the turkey and reserve for making turkey broth. Discard the liver. Remove and discard the plastic timer and any metal or plastic leg holders. Rinse and pat the turkey dry.

Rub the spice mixture under the turkey's skin over the entire breast, legs, and thighs, as well as in the cavity and over the wings. Set on a platter or pan large enough to hold the turkey and refrigerate uncovered overnight.

Position a rack in the bottom of the oven and heat the oven to 400 degrees F. In a large bowl, toss the carrots, celery, and onion with the oil. Put half of the vegetables in the center of a large flameproof roasting pan and put the rest in the turkey cavity. Tuck the wings behind the turkey's neck and tie the legs together with twine. Set a V-rack in the roasting pan over the vegetables. Put the turkey breast side down on the V-rack. Roast for 1 hour.

Remove the pan from the oven and baste the turkey back and sides with some of the pan drippings. With silicone oven mitts or two wads of paper towels, carefully turn the turkey breast side up and baste with more pan drippings. Continue to roast the turkey until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh registers 175 degrees F, an additional 1 to 1-1/2 hours. During this phase, check the vegetables in the pan every 20 minutes or so: They should be brown, but if they or the drippings threaten to burn, add about 1/4 cup water--you may need to do this several times.

When the turkey is done, protect your hands with silicone oven mitts or wads of paper towels and tilt the turkey so the juices in the cavity run into the roasting pan. Transfer the turkey to a carving board and let it rest for 30 to 40 minutes. Carve when ready to serve.

While the turkey is resting, set the roasting pan over medium-high heat. Add the wine and cook, using a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula to loosen the brown bits, until reduced by about half, 2 to 3 minutes. Strain the contents of the roasting pan into a bowl, pressing on the solids to release the flavorful drippings. Discard the solids.

In a 1-quart liquid measuring cup, combine the broth with 1-1/2 cups water. Tasting as you go, add enough of the pan drippings to the broth to make a flavorful yet not overly salted liquid--you may or may not use all of the drippings. Let sit until the fat rises to the surface. Skim off and reserve as much fat as possible.

Measure 4 tablespoon of the fat into a medium saucepan (supplement with olive oil if necessary) over medium heat. Whisk in the flour. Cook, whisking almost constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk in about 1/2 cup of the broth. As soon as the broth thickens, whisk in another 1/2 cup. Repeat until the mixture stays relatively smooth, at which point you can whisk in the remaining broth. Bring to a simmer and cook, whisking frequently, for 5 to 10 minutes to develop the flavor. The gravy will be on the thin side; if you prefer it thicker, continue simmering until thickened to your liking, but expect the flavor to concentrate as well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour into a gravy boat and serve with the carved turkey.

Use an all-natural turkey. Avoid kosher birds (they're already brined and will be too salty) and "self-basting" birds (which are treated with fat solutions). Consider ordering your bird in advance.

Let your turkey rest for 30 to 40 minutes before carving--the juices will redistribute into the meat, making it moist and tender. It also gives you time to finish preparing the meal.

For lump-free gravy, gradually whisk the broth into the roux. The liquid will thicken quickly and get gluey, so keep whisking in more broth, a bit at a time, until the gravy is smooth.

Provencal Roast Turkey with Red Wine Gravy: For the dry rub, use 3 tablespoons herbes de Provence, 2 tablespoons finely grated orange zest, 4 teaspoons fennel seeds (crushed), 1 ounce kosher salt, and 4 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper. Substitute 1/3 cup dry red wine for the white wine or vermouth.

1. Chop the turkey neck into three to four pieces with a cleaver. Chop the gizzard in half. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the turkey neck, gizzard, tail, and heart (don't use the liver) along with the onion and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir to coat with oil, cover, and cook gently for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally; the meat will release lots of juice.

2. Add 4 cups cold water and the carrot, celery, bay leaf, thyme, parsley, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, cover, and reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Simmer until the broth is flavorful, 30 to 40 minutes. Strain the broth and use immediately or let cool. Pick the meat from the neck and tail to add to the gravy along with the chopped gizzard and heart, if you like.