Roast Duck and Goose for a Classic Feast

No Comments | Written on December 15, 2011 at 9:00 am, by The Editors

“I believe there was never such a goose!” said Bob Cratchit, surrounded at the holiday table by his smiling clan in Charles Dickens’s A Christmas Carol. Roast goose is oh so very Victorian, but its rich flavor has played a part of major feasts since ancient times (the Celts, it is said, included goose in their celebrations and rituals). And roast duck isn’t far behind.

The bigger the bird, the bigger the celebration, and the New World turkey took the place of honor that the duck and goose held in Europe. But there are still plenty of cooks who hold to Old World tradition, and roast a Christmas duck or goose. And there are plenty of cooks who would like to know how. So we gathered our best roast duck and roast goose recipes and invite you to try a new kind of fowl this holiday.

The only real difference in cooking a duck or goose and cooking a turkey is that the former have a lot more fat than does a turkey. Which means that before you begin roasting, you’ll want to prick the skin with a fork, covering the entire body, to help drain fat. Midway through the roasting process, you’ll also turn the bird, which will also drain the fat. Begin with the duck or goose breast side down, and after about 30 minutes turn it so that it’s breast side up, draining the fat from the cavity as you go. Basting every 20 minutes keeps the duck or goose moist. (See the recipes below.)

What kind of duck is best? We could devote a whole column to that. Some farmers are growing rare-breed small ducks such as the Rouen Clair and the Duclair. So check with organizations such as Local Harvest to find a reputable poultry farmer near you. Ask your butcher at your local supermarket for advice. The Pekin is the most common duck grown in the U.S., and the Muscovy is next in line. Both have full flavor. And for geese, you can order an all-natural free-range goose online from D’Artagnan (but keep in mind that the price of goose flies way higher than that of turkey).

Check out this helpful fact sheet from the USDA: “Duck and Goose from Farm to Table.”